1、Circular Knitted Fabrics,OI Quality Training Course,Contents Circular Knitted Fabrics A. Fabrics Made with a Single Set of Needles (Single Knits) i. Single Jersey - Single Jersey with Elastane - Pique - Lacoste - Baby French Terry - Jacquard ii Terry iii. French Terry B. Fabrics Made on Two Needle B

2、eds (Double Knits) i. Interlock ii. Doubled Knitted Fabrics iii. Double Knitted - Jacquard iv Rib,Shaft Weaving: Schematic 梭(平)織法簡圖,Warping,Circular Knitting Machine 大筒圓編針織機,Circular Knitting Machine 大筒圓編針織機,彈力單面布 Single Jersey with Elastane,單面四角網眼布 Piqu,單面六角網眼布 Lacoste,單面四段魚鱗布 Baby French Terry,單面布

3、提花 Jacquard,毛巾刷毛布 Terry Brush,螞蟻刷毛 Buckly Fleece,毛巾提花布 Terry Jacquard,雙面刷毛 Polar Fleece (both side brushed, combed may ladder. (呈梯狀) Knitting needles can work sequentially or all together. (所有的針可按順序或同時進行編織),Characteristics 特性 Requires a full warp sheet. (需要整片經面) The loop-forming yarns are fed in the

4、 direction of the length of the fabric. (直向織法) Can not be unravelled, usually does not ladder. (不會脫散,不呈梯狀) Knitting needles always work together as a unit. (所有的針同時進行編織),緯編,經編,針織布,Production,一根紗在緯向的每一根針上成圈 Sequential loop formation on a flat machine Sequential needles: Machines can be flat or circula

5、r. Needles are usually of the latch type. (機臺可分平編和圓編),一根紗在經向相鄰的幾根針上成圈 Loop formation on a warp knitting machine Warp knitting: Warp knitting uses one or more warp sheets. Each yarn is looped around a needle and the needles are all moved together. (每一支紗在一根針上成圈,所有的針同時進行工作),Weft Knitted Fabrics,Warp Kn

6、itted Fabrics,緯編,經編,Latch Needles,Needles and Sinker for Single Knitting Machine 單面針織機之針和沉降片,Needles for Double Knitting Machine 雙面針織機之針,單面針織機 Single Knitting Machine,雙面針織機 Double Knitting Machine,中間空心,中間實心,Single both legs lying either under or over the head of the preceding loop. The upper pair ma

7、y intermesh in the opposite sense to the lower pair, depending on the construction.,Loop characteristics,網狀交織結合點,Face and Back of Knitted Loops (針織布的正反面) The lower pair of meshing points determine whether the loop is a face loop or a back loop. A back loop, is formed when the loop is drawn through t

8、he previous loop in a direction away from the viewer: the legs of the loop lie under the head of the preceding loop. A face loop, is formed when the loop is drawn through the previous loop in a direction towards the viewer: the legs of the loop lie over the head of the preceding loop.,Back loop 反面成圈

9、,Face loop 正面成柱,圈 Head,柱 Leg,Courses and Wales 緯向和經向 A course is a row of loops produced by adjacent needles during the same knitting cycle. A wale is a column of loops produced by the same needle on successive knitting cycles.,A course 緯向,A wale 經向,Basic Construction of Circular Knitted Fabrics 針織布

10、的基本組織,1. Knit 成圈 2. Tuck 集圈*,3. Miss (Float) 不成圈,如 網眼布 Piqu,如 提花布 Jacquard,* 吃紗不成圈謂之集圈. 一次不脫圈稱為一次集圈, 二次不脫圈稱為二次集圈, 鉤中會出現三根紗,一根為底紗, 加上二次集圈, 等於有三根紗.,如 單面針織布 Single Jersey,Tuck and Float (Miss) Loops A tuck stitch comprises a held loop and a tuck loop, both intermeshed in the same course. (由成圈與集圈組成 ) He

11、ld loop: a loop pulled through the loop of the previous course and retained by the needle over one or more courses. ( 成圈 ) Tuck loop: a length of yarn received by a needle but not pulled through the loop of the previous course. (一根紗在針上吃紗但不成圈, 掛在下一路的線圈上 ) Float (miss) loop: a length of yarn not recei

12、ved by a needle and connecting two loops of the same course that are not in adjacent wale. ( 一根紗不與緊鄰的縱向紗圈相結合, 而跳開與同排近鄰的紗圈相結合. ),A tuck stitch,A float (or miss) loop,A tuck loop,集圈,不成圈,Loop Formation,起針 挺針 退圈 墊紗 / 彎紗 脫圈 / 成圈,Latch Needles,Needle starts to ascend,Needle ascends & crosses horizontal ed

13、ge of the machine,Loop descends,Yarn is fed onto needle, then latch closes and needle descends,Loop is therefore formed,Plain, Single Jersey This structure is made with only a single set of needles. It is called single face, plain or single jersey.(Jersey is a general name for knitted fabrics. It is

14、 not restricted to any particular structure. (單面針織布是由一套針織成的) The two sides of the fabric have a different appearance. One side shows only face loops, the other side only back loops. (正面呈現柱狀,反面呈現弧圈) It has relatively low extensibility in the width and tends to curl at the edges. (單面針織布的橫向延展性不大,布邊趨向卷曲

15、),Plain, face,back,production,Cross-tuck (Piqu) 交叉集圈 Piqu-style relief patterning can be made on single or double jersey base structures. The single jersey base is more common because it is lighter weight. The pattern is formed by alternating plain and tuck loops within one course and between one co

16、urse and another. (Piqu 布可用單針機或雙針機織出,為求紡織品重量輕. 一般多織成單面布. 在緯向中可集圈與成圈交替出現. 雙面布的piqu較單面布的piqu柔軟),Cross-tuck (pique), face,back,Inlay (Loopback) - Baby French Terry 鑲嵌結構 An extra (inlay) yarn is floated on the technical back, tucking at regular intervals. Usually the inlay yarn is much coarser than the

17、ground yarn. These fabrics have a fine face and a bulky looped back which is often brushed or raised. (多一根粗紗鑲嵌在織物的反面,可達到正面組織平滑,反面組織粗糙. 鑲嵌的紗可懸弧在表面或可經刷毛加工, 提高了織物的厚度和保暖性.),Inlay or loopback, schematic,Inlay or loopback, face,back,Jacquard 提花布 When a color is not required on the face, the yarn floats on

18、 the back of the fabric. A wide range of designs can be created . The fabric is not very extensible, because of the large number of floats. Applications include fashion pullovers and waistcoats. (當色紗不希望在提花布的正面呈現時,可隱藏浮出在反面. 其設計可多樣化,織紋不具好的延展性,因為反面被浮出的色紗勾纏住),Jacquard, schematic,Jacquard, back,Jacquard,

19、 face,Plush or Terry 毛巾布 Plush or knitted terry fabric is made by including (plating) an extra yarn which is made to form extended sinker loops. The plated yarn can be knitted at every needle or on selected needles to form a pattern. (毛巾布是多加一根紗織出的,在反面造成圈狀的效果,可在每一根針上成圈,也可在選擇的針上成圈,造成不同的效果) Cut plush,

20、or knitted velour is made by cutting the plated yarn loops. The fabric surface then resembles velvet (velour). (成圈后可剪斷而成天鵝絨織品),Plush or terry, schematic 反面形成毛圈,Plush or terry,Cut plush (velour) 毛圈被切斷謂之天鵝絨,毛圈不被切斷謂之毛巾布,正包毛巾布 Reverse Plaiting Terry,反包毛巾布 Velour (天鵝絨),面 Face,底 Back,線圈 Loop,面 Face,底 Back

21、,線圈 Loop,面與底的線圈紗種 相同 (不剪線圈) Yarns of face and back are same, loop wont be cut,面與底的線圈紗種不同, 底的線圈剪后,面的組織不受影響 Different yarns between face and back, loop will be cut so that the structure of face wont be affected,Two Types of Terry Fabrics,Rib Fabric 羅紋布 Rib fabrics are made on two needle beds with the

22、needles in a staggered formation. The loops are drawn in opposite directions so that face and back loops alternate in each course. Both sides of the fabric show only the face loops. The back loops are exposed only when the fabric is extended in the width direction. Rib fabrics are very extensible in

23、 the width. Applications include pullovers, waistcoats, underwear, socks. (羅紋布是由兩套針交叉織出的,它們的圈形成上下交叉排列,兩面都呈現柱狀,反面弧圈只有在拉開橫向才會出現,羅紋布在橫向延展性佳.),Rib fabric,production,2x2 Rib, Broad Ribs 羅紋 A wide range of rib fabrics can be produced, depending on the set-out of the needles. The most popular is 2x2 rib wh

24、ich is made by taking every third needle out of action in each needle bed. (羅紋的種類千變萬化, 最普遍的是2上2下羅紋,每隔兩針變化一次) The two sides of the 2x2 rib fabric look the same. If the fabric is stretched in the width, the two rib loops are exposed between the two face loops. It is very elastic in the width direction

25、. (2上2下羅紋正反兩面看起來一樣,在橫向具有非常好的伸展性),2x2 rib,Interlock 棉毛布(雙羅紋組織) Interlock is made on two needle beds in which the needles are directly opposed an work alternately. (棉毛布是由兩套針織出來的,正反各一套羅紋組織在中間被鎖住) It takes two courses to make one row of loops on the face and back. Both side show only face loops and look

26、 identical. The fabric is extensible, but not very elastic. (棉毛布正反兩面都呈現相同的柱狀,織紋具有延展性但缺乏很好的彈性),Interlock,production,Double Piqu 雙面組織 Piqu布 Double piqu is made on rib machines by a selection of knitted loops and floats. The floats greatly reduce the width extensibility. (羅紋機可以織出雙面組織 piqu布,因為用 float 的織

27、法,所以大大減少了織品本身橫向的延展性. 雙面布的piqu較單面布的piqu柔軟),Double piqu, face,back,Rib Jacquard 羅紋提花 In double jersey jacquard machines, the needles in the two needle beds (cylinder and dial) can be selected either to knit or miss. (運用雙針織提花機,可以選用成圈或不成圈兩種織法而成.),Jacquard, face,back,Basic Characteristics & Applications

28、of Woven Fabrics 梭(平)織布的基本特性與應用,Basic Characteristics & Applications of Weft Knits 緯編針織布的基本特性與應用,Basic Characteristics & Applications of Warp Knits 經編針織布的基本特性與應用,彈力單面布 Single Jersey with Elastane,單面四角網眼布 Piqu,單面六角網眼布 Lacoste,單面四段魚鱗布 Baby French Terry,單面布提花 Jacquard,毛巾刷毛布 Terry Brush,螞蟻刷毛 Buckly Flee

29、ce,毛巾提花布 Terry Jacquard,雙面刷毛 Polar Fleece (both side brushed, combed & sheared),單刷單搖 One side brushed, combed, sheared & anti-pilling,雙刷單搖 Both side brushed, combed, sheared but only one side anti-pilling,雙刷雙搖 Both side brushed, combed, sheared & anti-pilling,斜紋毛圈布 Twill French Terry,交叉毛圈布 Cross Fre

30、nch Terry (Mini French Terry),拉毛布 Fleece,棉毛布(雙羅紋組織) Interlock,雙面布提花 Double Knitted - Jacquard,雙面布網眼 Double Knitted -Piqu,健康布 (棉蓋滌, 吸濕快干) Healthy Fabric,豬皮布 Pig Skin,雙面紗卡布 Sucker,法式羅紋布 French Rib,羅紋 Rib 11,羅紋 Rib 22,花式羅紋 Fancy Rib (如 11 + 22),提花羅紋 (如 用結構來提花) Rib Jacquard,移圈羅紋 Rib Pointelle,彈力單面布 Sing

31、le Jersey with Elastane,單面四角網眼布 Piqu,單面六角網眼布 Lacoste,單面四段魚鱗布 Baby French Terry,單面布提花 Jacquard,毛巾刷毛布 Terry Brush,螞蟻刷毛 Buckly Fleece,毛巾提花布 Terry Jacquard,雙面刷毛 Polar Fleece (both side brushed, combed & sheared),單刷單搖 One side brushed, combed, sheared & anti-pilling,雙刷單搖 Both side brushed, combed, sheare

32、d but only one side anti-pilling,雙刷雙搖 Both side brushed, combed, sheared & anti-pilling,斜紋毛圈布 Twill French Terry,拉毛布 Fleece,棉毛布(雙羅紋組織) Interlock,雙面布提花 Double Knitted - Jacquard,雙面布網眼 Double Knitted -Piqu,健康布 (棉蓋滌, 吸濕快干) Healthy Fabric,豬皮布 Pig Skin,雙面紗卡布 Sucker,法式羅紋布 French Rib,羅紋 Rib 11,羅紋 Rib 22,花式

33、羅紋 Fancy Rib (如 11 + 22),提花羅紋 (如 用結構來提花) Rib Jacquard,移圈羅紋 Rib Pointelle,交叉毛圈布 Cross French Terry (Mini French Terry),When placing an order, the following must be defined: (談判訂單時, 以下幾點需要詳細說明:) 1. Composition 成份 Buying office & Supplier / Factory. 2. Fabric Weight 克重 (gm / m) Buying Office & Supplier / Fa