第3頁共5頁D．中式服裝刮漿

smearingunderarmseamallowance中式服裝抬裉緝縫剪眼刀。抬裉縫剪口

notchingunderarmseamallowance

中式服裝抬裉緝縫剪眼刀。劃絎縫線

markingquiltingline劃出絎棉間隔標記。絎棉

quilting按絎棉標記機緝或手工絎縫。撟鈕袢

slip-stitchingbuttonloops

鈕袢邊折光撟縫。盤花鈕

makingChinesefrog用撟好的鈕袢條按花型盤成各種鈕扣。釘鈕袢

sewingbuttonloop

鈕袢釘上門里襟鈕位。釘領鉤袢

attachinghookandeye

領鉤袢釘在領口部位。E．西褲拔襠

blockingcrotch

將平面褲片拔燙成立體褲片。敷袋口牽條

attachingpocketstay

牽條布縫上袋口。扣燙膝蓋綢

foldingandpressingkneekicker膝蓋綢上下口毛邊折轉熨燙。撟膝蓋綢

slip-stitchingkneekicker膝蓋綢與前褲片撟牢。合側縫

joiningsideseam褲頭里面機緝縫合。合腰頭

stitchingwaistbandandlining

腰頭面里機緝縫合。翻腰頭

turningoverwaistband腰頭正面翻出。合串帶袢

makingbeltloops串帶袢機緝縫合。翻串帶袢

turningoverbelt

串帶袢正面翻出。绱拉鏈

attachingzipper

拉鏈裝在門里襟上。翻門袢

turningoverflyfacing

門袢緝好后正面翻出。翻里襟

turningoverflyshield

里襟緝好后正面翻出。绱門袢

attachingflyfacing門袢裝在褲門襟上。绱里襟

attachingflyshield里襟裝在里襟片上。緝裥

stitchingpleat

前身褲腰口打裥機緝。绱腰頭

sewingonwaistband

腰頭裝在褲腰上縫合。绱串帶袢

tackingloopstowaistband

串帶袢裝在腰頭上。绱雨水布

attachingtrousercurtain

雨水布裝在褲腰里下口。合下襠縫

joininginseam

下襠縫機緝縫合。合前后縫

joiningcrotch前后襠縫機緝縫合。封小襠

bartackingfrontcrotch小襠開口機緝或手工封口。鉤后襠縫

backstitchingbackcrotch后襠縫彎處用粗線倒鉤針法縫扎。扣燙褲底

foldingandpressingcrotchreinforcement褲底外口毛邊折轉熨燙。绱大褲底

attachingbackcrotchstay

褲底裝在后襠十字處縫合。花繃十字縫

cross-stitchingcrotch

褲襠十字縫分開繃牢。扣燙貼腳條

foldingandpressingheelstay褲腳口貼條扣轉熨燙。绱貼腳條

attachingheelstay貼腳條裝在褲腳口里沿邊。疊卷腳

makingfrenchtackatcuff

褲腳翻邊在側縫下襠處縫牢。釘褲鉤袢

attachinghookandeyetowaistband

褲鉤袢釘在門里襟腰頭上。F．其它合裙縫

joiningsideseam

裙縫機緝縫合。抽碎褶

gathering

用縫線抽縮成不定型的細褶。疊順褶

formingandstitchingflatpleats縫疊一順方向的裥子。合帽縫

joininghoodseams

帽縫機緝縫合。绱帽沿條

tapinghood

帽貼邊緝上帽前面止口部位。合帽面里

attachingliningtohood

帽子面里機緝縫合。翻帽子

turninghoodtorightside帽子正面翻出。绱帽

attachinghoodtogarment帽子裝在領窩上。拉線攀

makingFrenchtack用單線或多股線編成線帶，在服裝上起固定個別零件作用。針距

stitchsizespacing

指縫制過程中，每一針的距離。G．各類縫子包縫

overlockstitch

用包縫機將衣片毛邊包光。明包縫

flatfelledseam

明包明緝的縫子。暗包縫

weltseam暗包明緝的縫子。來去縫

Frenchseam先緝正面窄縫，修剪毛梢后，再次在反面緝一道線。分縫

openseam

縫子緝好后，毛縫向兩邊分開。坐倒縫

plainseam縫子緝好后毛縫單邊坐倒。坐緝縫

lapseam毛縫單邊坐倒，正面壓一道明線。分緝縫

doubletop-stitchedseam毛縫兩邊分開，兩邊各壓一道明線。壓緝線

top-stitchedlappedseam

上層縫口折光，攤平，正面壓一道明線。漏落縫

self-boundseamwithsinkstitch

明線緝在分縫中或沿緝縫處。11分坐緝縫

top-stitchedopenseam把緝縫坐倒，縫口分開，在坐縫上壓緝一道線。H．各類針法納針

padstitch

納駁頭用的針法。環針

overcaststitch

毛縫口環光的針法。撩針

runningstitch牽條布撩在襯布的針法。寨針

bastestitch

臨時固定的針法。暗撟針

blindstitch線跡縫在底邊縫口內的針法。明撟針

slantstitch線跡略露在外面的針法。三角針

catchstitch

繃三角形針法。楊樹花針

featherstitch

楊樹花形針法。倒鉤針

backstitch倒鉤形的針法。拱針

prickstitch

用于手工拱縫的針法。扳針

diagonalslipstitch止口毛縫與襯布扳牢的針法。疊針

fasteningstitch

面里毛縫對齊扎牢的針法。縫針

handplainstitch針距相等的手縫針法。絎針

quilting棉服裝手工絎棉的針法。鎖針

buttonholestitch

手工鎖眼的針法。倒回針

backstitch縫紉開始與終止時加固的針法。打套結

bartack手針或機打套結。貫針

fastenslipstitch用于縫份折光后對接的針法，能直觀解決斜紗部位的縫合。一般用于西服領串口部位。合肩縫

joiningshoulderseam肩縫機緝縫合。分燙肩縫pressingopenshoulderseam

肩縫緝縫分開熨燙。疊肩縫

slip-stitchingshoulderseam

肩縫縫頭與襯扎牢。做墊肩

makingshoulderpad

用布和棉花等做成墊肩。裝墊肩

settingshoulderpad墊肩裝在袖窿肩頭部位。倒鉤領窩

back-stitchingneckline

沿領窩用倒鉤針法縫扎。拼領襯

joiningcollarinterlining

領襯拼縫機緝縫合或粘合搭拼。拼領里

applyinginterliningtocollar領里拼縫機緝縫合。緝領里

top-stitchingundercollar機緝領里。歸拔領里

blockingundercollar領里歸拔熨燙。歸拔領面

blockingtopcollar

領面歸拔熨燙。敷領面

attachingundercollartotopcollar領面敷上領里。合領子

joiningundercollarandtopcollar領面、里機緝縫合。翻領子

turningovercollar領子正面翻出。做領舌

makingcollarbandends做中山服底領探出的里襟。包底領

stitchingcollarband

中山服底領包轉機緝。绱領子

sewingcollaronanddown領子裝上領窩。分燙绱領縫

pressingopencollarseam

绱領緝縫分開熨燙。分燙領串口

slip-stitchinggorgeseam領串口緝縫分開熨燙。疊領串口

slip-stitchinggorgeseam領串口縫與绱領縫扎牢。包領面

turningovertopcollarseamallowancesandcatch-stitchingit西裝、大衣領面外口包轉，用三角針與領面繃牢。上下領縫合

attachingbandtocollar

中山服或襯衫領上下結合。壓燙領腳

pressingcollar裝領完畢后，將前后領圈放平用熨斗壓燙绱領縫子部位。歸拔偏袖

blockingsleeve

偏袖部位，歸拔熨燙。合袖縫

joiningsleeveseam

袖縫機緝縫合。分燙袖縫

pressingopensleeveseam袖縫緝縫分開熨燙。撟袖叉

slip-stitchingsleeveslit袖叉邊與袖口貼邊撟牢。疊袖里縫

matchingandstitchingsleeveliningseamallowance

袖子面、里緝縫對齊扎牢。翻袖子

turningoversleeve

袖子正面翻出，即縫袖山頭吃勢。收袖山

easingsleevecap收縮袖山松度或縫吃頭。绱袖

settinginsleeve

袖子裝在袖窿上。撟袖窿

slip-stitchingsleeveliningtogarmentlining撟袖窿里子。壓燙袖窿

pressingarmhole裝袖完畢，將袖窿按圓形放平（分段）用熨斗壓燙绱袖縫子部分。滾袖窿

bindingarmhole用滾條將袖窿毛邊包光。撟領鉤

attachinghooktocollarband

底領領鉤開口處用手工撟牢。撟領下口

slip-stitchingcollartogarment領里下口與大身撟牢。疊暗門襟

slip-stitchingfacing暗門襟眼距間用暗針縫牢。撟底邊

blindstitchinghem底邊與大身撟牢。女毛呢服裝合刀背縫

stitchingprincessline

刀背縫機緝縫合。燙刀背縫

pressingprincessline

刀背縫緝縫坐倒或分開熨燙。定眼位

markingbuttonposition

劃準扣眼位置。滾扣眼

boundingbuttonhole用滾眼料把扣眼毛邊包光。開扣眼

cuttingbuttonhole

扣眼剪開。滾掛面

biasbindingfacing掛面里口毛邊用滾條包光。合領面

joiningtopcollar

領面拼縫機緝縫合（合領里與此同）做袋爿

makingweltpocket袋爿縫扣轉撟上里子。做袋

makingpocket做各種袋。绱袋

attachingpockettogarment

口袋裝在袋位上。翻小袢

turningovertab

小袢正面翻出。绱袖袢

attachingsleevetab袖袢裝在袖口上規定的部位。合腰帶

stitchingwaistbandandlining

腰帶機緝縫合。翻腰帶

turningoverwaistband

腰帶正面翻出。坐燙里子縫

pressingliningseamrollingtounderside里子緝縫坐倒熨燙。合大身面里

stitchinggarmentandliningtogether大身面里機緝縫合。翻里子

turningoverlining

面、里正面翻出。敷里子

attachingliningtogarment里子敷上大身。撟扣眼

slip-stitchingbuttonhole扣眼毛邊折光撟牢。襯衫角薄膜定位

positioningcollarstay

領角薄膜在領襯上定位。熱縮領面

pressingtopcollarforpreshrinking

領面防縮熨燙。粘翻領

fusinginterlining

領襯與領面三邊沿口上漿粘合。壓領角

pressingcollerpoint

上領翻出后領角熱定型。夾翻領

attachingcollertoband