毛衫編織工藝設(shè)計(一)男士圓領(lǐng)長袖毛衫(仿制)款式圖樣片結(jié)構(gòu)圖工藝基本參數(shù)：原料：6.25tex×1,羊絨衫；針型：12G;尺碼：M;織物組織：前篇為題化組織，后片及袖子為平針，下擺、袖子和領(lǐng)子采用2+1羅紋；成平密度：平針、提花組織橫密6.32針/CM,縱密4.70/CM;2+1羅紋橫密度7.63針/CM,叢密6.20轉(zhuǎn)/CM。男子圓領(lǐng)長袖毛衫成品尺寸表序號部位尺寸備注序號部位尺寸備注1衣長8袖口羅紋長42胸寬9掛肩3肩寬后領(lǐng)寬4下擺羅紋長6后領(lǐng)深35下擺羅紋寬前領(lǐng)深76袖長37袖口寬內(nèi)容備注1胸寬針數(shù)(胸寬-擺縫折向)×衣身橫密+擺縫縫耗=(52-1)×6.32+1=326.32取327針擺縫縫耗4針2領(lǐng)后領(lǐng)寬針數(shù)(領(lǐng)寬-擴張修正值)×衣身橫密=(23-2)×6.32=132.72取133針擴張修正值取2領(lǐng)底平位針數(shù)后領(lǐng)寬針數(shù)×系數(shù)=1330.57=78.5取79針3肩后肩寬針數(shù)肩寬×衣身橫密×修正系數(shù)+縫耗=48×6.32×0.95+4=292.192取293針修正系數(shù)取0.95單肩寬針數(shù)(肩寬-領(lǐng)寬針數(shù))÷2=(293-133)÷2=80即80針4后擺寬針數(shù)(擺寬-擺縫折向)×衣身橫密+擺縫縫耗=(48-1)×6.32+4=296.81去297針5后腰寬針數(shù)(腰寬-擺縫折向)×衣身橫密+擺縫縫耗=(48-1)×6.32+4=296.81取6后衣長轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)(衣長-下擺高)×衣身縱密=(62-6)×4.70=263.2取264針7后下擺高轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)(下擺高-空轉(zhuǎn)長度)×下擺縱密+縫耗=(6-0.2)×6.20=35.96取36針空轉(zhuǎn)長度取0.2后掛肩以上轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)(掛肩-斜向修正值+肩斜)×衣身縱密+縫耗=(25-2+3)×4.70+2=124.2取125針斜向修正值取2肩斜取3掛肩收針取7后掛肩以上轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后肩斜轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)肩斜×衣身縱密=3×4.70=14.1取15轉(zhuǎn)后掛肩轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)掛肩以上轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)-肩斜轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)=125-15=110取110轉(zhuǎn)后掛肩收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)取30轉(zhuǎn)后掛肩平搖轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)掛肩轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)-掛肩收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)=110-30=80取80轉(zhuǎn)后掛肩平搖轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后袖山頭轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)1/2袖山頭針數(shù)÷袖身橫密×衣身縱密=62÷2÷6.32÷1.01×4.70=22.8取23轉(zhuǎn)后中位轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)掛肩平搖轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)-袖山頭轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)=80-23=57取57轉(zhuǎn)后掛肩以下轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)厚片衣長轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)-后掛肩以上專屬=264-125=139即139轉(zhuǎn)后領(lǐng)后領(lǐng)深轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)(后領(lǐng)深-肩縫折向)×衣身縱密=(3-1)×4.70=9.4取9轉(zhuǎn)肩縫折向取1后領(lǐng)平搖轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后領(lǐng)直位×衣身縱密=1×4.70=4.70取4轉(zhuǎn)后領(lǐng)收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后領(lǐng)深轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)-后領(lǐng)平搖轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)=9-4=5即5轉(zhuǎn)后掛肩收針分配收針針數(shù)(每(后胸寬針數(shù)-后肩寬針數(shù))÷2=(327-293)÷2=17針即17針收針次數(shù)(每后掛肩收針針數(shù)÷后掛肩每次每邊收針針數(shù)=17÷3=5.33取5針每次收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后掛肩收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)÷(后掛肩收針次數(shù)-1)=17÷(5-1)=4.22取4轉(zhuǎn)/次收針分配式2-4-2(先收)、4-4-5-5-4-5后領(lǐng)收針分配收針針數(shù)(每(后領(lǐng)寬針數(shù)-后領(lǐng)底平位針數(shù))÷2=(133-79)÷2=27即27針收針次數(shù)(每后領(lǐng)寬每邊收針針數(shù)÷沒變每次收針針數(shù)=27÷3=9即9針沒次收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后領(lǐng)收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)÷(后領(lǐng)÷收針次數(shù)-收針分配式1-2-4(先收)、1-3-4收針針數(shù)(每(后肩寬針數(shù)-后領(lǐng)寬針數(shù))÷2=(293-133)÷2=80針即80針收針次數(shù)(每后肩斜每次收針次數(shù)÷每次每邊收針次數(shù)=80÷3=26.6即27次每次收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后肩斜收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)÷(肩斜收針次數(shù)-1)=30÷(27-1)=1.15取1轉(zhuǎn)/次收針分配式2-6-8(先收)1-6-28序號內(nèi)容計算方法備注1前胸寬針數(shù)(胸寬+擺縫折向)×衣身橫密+擺縫縫耗=(52+1)×6.32+1=338.96取339針2領(lǐng)前領(lǐng)寬針數(shù)后領(lǐng)寬針數(shù)+修正值×衣身橫密=133+1×6.32=139.32取139針修正值取1領(lǐng)底平位針數(shù)前領(lǐng)寬針數(shù)×系數(shù)=139×0.33=45.87取463肩前肩寬針數(shù)后肩寬針數(shù)=293即為293針單肩寬針數(shù)后單肩寬針數(shù)=80即為80針4前擺寬針數(shù)(擺寬+擺縫折向)×衣身橫密+擺縫縫耗=(48+1)×6.32+4=313.68取314針5前腰寬針數(shù)(腰寬+擺縫折向)×衣身橫密+擺縫縫耗=(48+1)×6.32+4=313.68取314針6前衣片長轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后衣片長轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)+修正值=264+2=266修正值取27前下擺高轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后下擺高轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)=36即36轉(zhuǎn)8前掛肩以上轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后掛肩以上轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)+修正值=125+2=127即127轉(zhuǎn)修正值取2前掛肩以上轉(zhuǎn)前肩斜轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后肩斜轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)=15即15轉(zhuǎn)前掛肩收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后掛肩收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)=30即30轉(zhuǎn)前掛肩平搖轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)前掛肩轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)-前掛肩收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)=112-30=82即82轉(zhuǎn)前掛肩平搖轉(zhuǎn)前袖山頭轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后袖山頭轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)+修正值=23+2=25即25轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)數(shù)中位轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)前掛肩平搖轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)-前袖山頭轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)=82-25=57即57轉(zhuǎn)9前掛肩以下轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后掛肩以下轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)=139轉(zhuǎn)即139轉(zhuǎn)前領(lǐng)前領(lǐng)深轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)(前領(lǐng)深+肩縫折向)×衣身縱密+修正值(3-1)×4.70=9,4取9轉(zhuǎn)前領(lǐng)平搖轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后領(lǐng)直位×衣身縱密=1×4.70=4.70取4轉(zhuǎn)前領(lǐng)收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后領(lǐng)深轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)-后領(lǐng)平搖轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)=9-4=5轉(zhuǎn)收針針數(shù)(每邊)(前胸寬針數(shù)-前肩寬針數(shù))÷2=(339-293)÷2=23針收針次數(shù)(每邊)前掛肩收針次數(shù)÷前掛肩每次每邊收沒次收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)前掛肩收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)÷(前掛肩收針次數(shù)-1)=30÷(9-1)=3.7取4轉(zhuǎn)/次收針分配式2-372先收3-3-24-63-3收針針數(shù)(每邊)(前領(lǐng)寬針數(shù)-前領(lǐng)底平位針數(shù))÷2=(139-46)÷2=46即46針收針次數(shù)(每邊)前領(lǐng)寬每邊收針針數(shù)÷每邊收針次數(shù)每次收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)前領(lǐng)收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)÷(前領(lǐng)收針次數(shù)-1)收針分配式收針針數(shù)(每邊)收針次數(shù)(每邊)沒次收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)收針分配式序號內(nèi)容計算方法備注1袖寬最大針數(shù)袖寬×3×衣身橫密×修正系數(shù)+縫耗針數(shù)=13×2×6.32×1.04+4=169.9取170袖口取132袖口寬針數(shù)袖口寬×2×袖口羅紋橫密+縫耗針數(shù)=12×2×7.63+4=187.12取1973袖山頭針數(shù)袖山頭寬×袖橫密+縫耗針數(shù)×衣身橫密×修正系數(shù)+縫耗針數(shù)=9×6.32×1.01+4=61.4取62針4袖長總轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)(袖長-修正參數(shù)-袖口高)衣身縱密+縫耗=(50-3.5-8)×4.70+2=182.95取183轉(zhuǎn)修正參數(shù)3.55袖口高轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)(袖口高-空轉(zhuǎn)長度)×袖羅紋縱密=(4-0.2)×6.20×0.95=22.382取23轉(zhuǎn)袖山高轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后中位轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)+后掛肩收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)-(1~1.5)×衣身縱密+縫耗=57+30-1×4.70+2=84.3取84修正值取1袖山高轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)袖夾收花轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)袖山高轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)-袖頂拐角無邊收針數(shù)-縫耗84-4-2=78即78轉(zhuǎn)收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)袖頂拐角無邊收針高度×袖縱密=1.5×4.70×0.95=6.69取6轉(zhuǎn)袖頂掛角高度取1.5修正系數(shù)取0.957袖下夾轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)袖夾下轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)-袖山高轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)=183-84=99取99轉(zhuǎn)袖夾下轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)袖夾下平搖轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)袖下夾直位長度×袖縱密=3.5÷4.70÷0.95=15.6取16轉(zhuǎn)袖下夾長度取3.5轉(zhuǎn)袖夾下放針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)袖頂拐角無邊收針分配收針針數(shù)(每修訂拐角無邊收針寬度×袖橫密÷2=3×6.32×1.01÷2=9.5取9針收釷次數(shù)(每每邊收針針數(shù)÷每次每邊收針針數(shù)每次收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)1轉(zhuǎn)/次收針分配式9袖夾收花分配收針針數(shù)(每(袖寬最大針數(shù)-袖山頭針數(shù)-袖頂拐角無邊收針針數(shù)-袖夾下平收針數(shù))÷2=(170-62-18-0)÷2=45針收針次數(shù)(每袖夾每邊收針針數(shù)÷每次每邊收針針數(shù)=45÷3=15次每次收針式1)=78÷(15-1)=5.57即5.5轉(zhuǎn)/次收針分配式方針幀數(shù)(每(袖寬最大針數(shù)-袖口寬針數(shù))÷2=(187-170)÷2=8.5即9針?biāo)姿仔鋳A下放針分配方針幀數(shù)(每每邊放針針數(shù)÷每次每邊放針針數(shù)每次加針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)袖夾下放針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)÷(袖夾下放針次數(shù)放針分配式下擺收緊2+1羅紋[胸寬針數(shù)-(4~6)]÷2或擺寬針數(shù)÷3=(327-6)袖口2+羅紋39入袖片縫合工藝單流程：合右肩縫(四線包縫機)------上羅紋領(lǐng)(四線包縫機)------合左肩縫標(biāo)(平縫機)(二)男士無領(lǐng)馬甲毛衫(自主設(shè)計)款式圖樣片片及袖子為平針，下擺、和領(lǐng)子采用2+1羅紋；成平密度：平針、提花組織橫密6.32針/CM,縱密4.70/CM;2+1羅紋橫密度7.63針/CM,叢序號部位尺寸備注序號部位尺寸備注1衣長842胸寬9掛肩3肩寬后領(lǐng)寬4下擺羅紋長6后領(lǐng)深35下擺羅紋寬前領(lǐng)深76袖口羅紋長4311內(nèi)容備注1胸寬針數(shù)(胸寬-擺縫折向)×衣身橫密+擺縫縫耗=(52-1)×6.32+1=326.32取327針擺縫縫耗4針2領(lǐng)后領(lǐng)寬針數(shù)(領(lǐng)寬-擴張修正值)×衣身橫密=(23-2)×6.32=132.72取133針擴張修正值取2領(lǐng)底平位針數(shù)后領(lǐng)寬針數(shù)×系數(shù)=1330.57=78.5取79針3肩后肩寬針數(shù)肩寬×衣身橫密×修正系數(shù)+縫耗=48×6.32×0.95+4=292.192取293針修正系數(shù)取0.95單肩寬針數(shù)(肩寬-領(lǐng)寬針數(shù))÷2=(293-133)÷2=80即80針4后擺寬針數(shù)(擺寬-擺縫折向)×衣身橫密+擺縫縫耗=(48-1)×6.32+4=296.81去297針5后腰寬針數(shù)(腰寬-擺縫折向)×衣身橫密+擺縫縫耗=(48-1)×6.32+4=296.81取6后衣長轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)(衣長-下擺高)×衣身縱密=(62-6)×4.70=263.2取264針7后下擺高轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)(下擺高-空轉(zhuǎn)長度)×下擺縱密+縫耗=(6-0.2)×6.20=35.96取36針空轉(zhuǎn)長度取0.2后掛肩以上轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)(掛肩-斜向修正值+肩斜)×衣身縱密+縫耗=(25-2+3)×4.70+2=124.2取125針斜向修正值取2肩斜取3掛肩收針取7后掛肩以上轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后肩斜轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)肩斜×衣身縱密=3×4.70=14.1取15轉(zhuǎn)后掛肩轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)掛肩以上轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)-肩斜轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)=125-15=110取110轉(zhuǎn)后掛肩收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后掛收針長度-肩斜轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)=7×4.70=30.6取30轉(zhuǎn)后掛肩平搖轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)掛肩轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)-掛肩收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)=110-30=80取80轉(zhuǎn)后掛肩平搖轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后袖山頭轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)1/2袖山頭針數(shù)÷袖身橫密×衣身縱密=62÷2÷6.32÷1.01×4.70=22.8取23轉(zhuǎn)后中位轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)掛肩平搖轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)-袖山頭轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)=80-23=57取57轉(zhuǎn)9后掛肩以下轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)厚片衣長轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)-后掛肩以上專屬=264-125=139即139轉(zhuǎn)后領(lǐng)后領(lǐng)深轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)(后領(lǐng)深-肩縫折向)×衣身縱密肩縫折向取1后領(lǐng)平搖轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后領(lǐng)直位×衣身縱密=1×4.70=4.70取4轉(zhuǎn)后領(lǐng)收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后領(lǐng)深轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)-后領(lǐng)平搖轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)=9-4=5即5轉(zhuǎn)收針針數(shù)(每(后胸寬針數(shù)-后肩寬針數(shù))÷2=(327-293)÷2=17針即17針收針次數(shù)(每針針數(shù)=17÷3=5.33取5針每次收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)收針分配式2-4-2(先收)、4-4-5-5-4-5收針針數(shù)(每(后領(lǐng)寬針數(shù)-后領(lǐng)底平位針數(shù))÷2=(133-79)÷2=27即27針收針次數(shù)(每沒次收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后領(lǐng)收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)÷(后領(lǐng)÷收針次數(shù)-收針分配式1-2-4(先收)、1-3-4收針針數(shù)(每(后肩寬針數(shù)-后領(lǐng)寬針數(shù))÷2=(293-133)÷2=80針即80針收針次數(shù)(每每次收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后肩斜收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)÷(肩斜收針次數(shù)-1)=30÷(27-1)=1.15取1轉(zhuǎn)/次收針分配式2-6-8(先收)1-6-28序號內(nèi)容計算方法備注1前胸寬針數(shù)(胸寬+擺縫折向)×衣身橫密+擺縫縫耗=(52+1)×6.32+1=338.96取339針領(lǐng)前領(lǐng)寬針數(shù)后領(lǐng)寬針數(shù)+修正值×衣身橫密=133+1×6.32=139.32取139針修正值取12領(lǐng)底平位針數(shù)前領(lǐng)寬針數(shù)×系數(shù)=139×0.33=45.87取463肩前肩寬針數(shù)后肩寬針數(shù)=293即為293針單肩寬針數(shù)后單肩寬針數(shù)=80即為80針4前擺寬針數(shù)(擺寬+擺縫折向)×衣身橫密+擺縫縫耗=(48+1)×6.32+4=313.68取314針5前腰寬針數(shù)(腰寬+擺縫折向)×衣身橫密+擺縫縫耗=(48+1)×6.32+4=313.68取314針6前衣片長轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后衣片長轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)+修正值=264+2=266修正值取27前下擺高轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后下擺高轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)=36即36轉(zhuǎn)8前掛肩以上轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后掛肩以上轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)+修正值=125+2=127即127轉(zhuǎn)修正值取2前掛肩以上轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)前肩斜轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后肩斜轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)=15即15轉(zhuǎn)前掛肩收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后掛肩收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)=30即30轉(zhuǎn)前掛肩平搖轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)前掛肩轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)-前掛肩收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)=112-30=82即82轉(zhuǎn)前掛肩平搖轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)前袖山頭轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后袖山頭轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)+修正值=23+2=25即25轉(zhuǎn)中位轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)前掛肩平搖轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)-前袖山頭轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)=82-25=57即57轉(zhuǎn)9前掛肩以下轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后掛肩以下轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)=139轉(zhuǎn)即139轉(zhuǎn)前領(lǐng)前領(lǐng)深轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)(前領(lǐng)深+肩縫折向)×衣身縱密+修正值(3-1)×4.70=9.4取9轉(zhuǎn)前領(lǐng)平搖轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后領(lǐng)直位×衣身縱密=1×4.70=4.70取4轉(zhuǎn)前領(lǐng)收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)后領(lǐng)深轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)-后領(lǐng)平搖轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)=9-4=5轉(zhuǎn)收針針數(shù)(每邊)(前胸寬針數(shù)-前肩寬針數(shù))÷2=(339-293)÷2=23針收針次數(shù)(每邊)前掛肩收針次數(shù)÷前掛肩每次每邊收沒次收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)前掛肩收針轉(zhuǎn)數(shù)÷(前掛肩收針次數(shù)-1)=30÷(9-1