2023/1/171CHAPTER19WovenFabrics2023/1/172Keywords全部

Newwords1，3，4，9，11，13，15，16，18，22，24，32，35，45，48，52-54，58，63，68，75，77，82，90-92，95，106，113，116，119，134，139，141，144。2023/1/173

Wovenfabric,withtheexceptionoftriaxialfabric,consistsofsetsofyarnsinterlacedatrightanglesinanestablished已制定的，確定的sequence次序，序列,orpattern式樣，圖案.Theyarnsparalleltothelengthwisedirectionofawovenfabricarecalledwarpyarnsorends(經(jīng)紗);thosethatrunperpendiculartothewarp,across(橫過(guò)，越過(guò)）thefabricarecalledfillingyarns,weftyarns,woofyarns,orpicks（緯紗）(Figure19.1).Thetermswarpandfillingarecommonlyusedbyretailersandconsumers:producersaremorelikelytousethetermsendsandpicks.Thetwoedgesofthefabricthatrunitslengtharecalledselvages（布邊，邊緣）.2023/1/174FIGURE19.1Diagramofwarpandfillingyarnsinafabricproducedonashuttleloom.2023/1/175

Earlyloomswerequitecrude粗糙的comparedwithmodernmechanical機(jī)械的weavingmachines,butthebasicoperating運(yùn)行操作，工作principlesfortheequipmentareidentical同一的，相似的.Thereisasystemtoholdthelongwarpyarnsundertension;thereisamethodforinserting插入，嵌入thefilling;andthereisadevicetopack擠thefillingyarnsintoposition.ThebasicpartsofahandloomarediagrammedinFigure19.2;eachhasaspecializedfunction,orbasicloommotion,toperform履行，執(zhí)行，完成Figure19.3illustratesthemovementofthetwoharnesses綜，綜框toformtheshed.2023/1/176FIGURE19.2Diagramofasimplehandloom.綜筘梭口卷布輥筘座2023/1/177Weaving

Thewarpbeam（經(jīng)軸，織軸）,whichholdsthelengthwiseyarns,islocatedatthebackofthemachineandiscontrolledsothatitreleasesyarntotheweavingareaoftheloomasneeded.Thisfunctionisthelet-offmotions（送經(jīng)）,thefirstoffourprimaryloommotions.Theheddles（綜片)arewireormetalstrips條，皮帶thatallowcontroloftheindividualends（經(jīng)紗）;anendispulledthroughtheeyelocatedinthecenterofeachheddle.Theindividualheddlesaremountedinaharness（綜）thatallowsthewarpyarnstobecontrolledingroups.Aloomhasatleasttwoharnesses,andmosthavemore.Thenumberofharnessesonaloomhelpsdeterminethecomplexityofthefabricdesignthatcanbeproduced.2023/1/178

Inatwo-harnessloom,everyother每隔，所有其他的warpyarnacrossthewidthofthefabricisinoneharness.Whenthatharnessisraised,halfofthewarpyarnsrisetoproduceanopeningbetweenthetwosheetsofwarpyarns.Thisopening,knownastheshed（開(kāi)口）,producesapaththroughwhichthefilling（緯紗）isinserted.Theloommotioniscalledshedding（開(kāi)口）,andtheorderinwhichharnessesareraisedandloweredproducesapatterninthefabric.Inloomscontainingmorethantwoharnesses,thesequencefordrawingendsthroughheddlesandmountingheddlesinharnessesesmoreintricate（錯(cuò)綜復(fù)雜的，難于理解的）.Inmanycases,groupsofharnessesareraisedandloweredtogether.Averygoodfabricdesignerisneededtoplanthedrawing-in（穿經(jīng)）ofawarpandthesequencingofharnessmovementsina32-harnessloom.2023/1/179

Thethirdbasicloommotionispickingorfillinginsertion（投梭，引緯）.Formanyyears,fillingyarnwaslaidacrosstheshedwithashuttle.Intoday'sweavingmachines,anotherdevice,suchasajetofairorwater,arapier劍桿,orasmallprojectile,isusedtoplacethepick.Theneachfillingyarnmustbepackedagainstthepreviouslyplacedpick.Thisisplishedbyusingareed(筘),whichisparalleltotheharness,topressthepickintoposition.Thisisthebeat-upmotion（打緯）,thefourthandfinalprimaryloommotion.2023/1/1710

Theclothbeam,orclothroll,locatedatthefrontoftheloom,holdsthecompletedfabric;aseachpickisbeatenintoposition,thefabricjustproducedisrolledontothetake-upbeam.This

take-upmotion(卷取)

isthefinalloommotion:becauselet-offandtake-upoccursimultaneously,theloommotionisusuallyreferredtoas"let-offandtake-up."2023/1/1711SummaryTheMajorMotionsorActionsofloomsareshedding,picking,andbeating-up.Minormotionsonloomsarethetake-up,let-off,andpattern.Thefirstthreemotionsarelinkedtogetherasfollows:

SheddingMotionTheseparatingofthewarpendsintoanupperandlowersystemofthreadstopermittheshuttletopassthroughthespacethathasbeenformed.Thewarpendsaredrawnthroughheddleeyesinthecorrectmanner,andintheturning-overofthecrankshaftoftheloom,ashedisformedwitheachturn.

PickingMotionTheactualpassingoftheshuttlethroughtheshedoftheloom.Theshuttlepassesovertheloweredendsoftheshedandunderitsraisedends.Theshedpermitstheshuttletopassthroughitandtherebymakesitpossiblefortheshuttletodepositthepickorfillingyarn.

Beating-UpTheactualbeatingintoplaceoftheloosepickthatwasplacedintheshedoftheloominthepickingmotion.Beating-upmakeseachandeverydepositedyarnacomponentpartofthewovencloth,Thereedbeatsthispickintoplacewitheachconsecutiveturnofthecrankshaft.

2023/1/1712

Mostfabricsareproducedonweavingmachineswitheightorfewerharnesses:elaborate詳盡，復(fù)雜精致的fabrics,however,requiremanyharnessandthespecialattachments附件requiredtocontrolgroupsofharnesses,ortheyhavemechanisms機(jī)械裝置，機(jī)構(gòu)similartocomputercontrolsthatmoveindividualwarpyarntoproducecomplexpatterns.Thesemoreelaboratesheddingmechanismsarediscussedinthesectionsofthischapterdevotedtodobby（多臂）andweaving.2023/1/1713SHUTTLEWEAVINGMACHINESForcenturies,thebasicloomoperatedwitha

shuttletolaythefilling,orpick,yarn(Figure19.4).Bythemiddleofthetwentiethcenturyshuttleloomshaddevelopedtoahighlevelofefficiency,allowingthemtomakefabricrapidlywithreducednumbersof

flaws（織疵，疵點(diǎn)）.Theseshuttleweavingmachinesdependonashuttle,aboat-shaped,metal-tippedcarrier,tosupplyacontinuouslengthoffillingyarnfortheweavingoperation.2023/1/1714

Theyarnisactuallywoundonasmallspindle錠子orbobbin筒管knownasaquill（紆管，緯管）,

whichisplacedinanopeningintheshuttle.Theshuttleenterstheshedandmovesacrossthewidthofthefabrictolaythepick;itstopsattheoppositesideofthefabric;and,afterthatpickisbeatenintoplace,anewshedisformedandtheshuttlereturnsacrosstheloom,releasingyarnfromthequilltoproduceanotherpick.Asthisoperationisrepeated,thefillingyarnisalternatelywovenoverandunderthewarpyarnsatthesidesofthefabrictoformtheselvage2023/1/1715FIGURE19.4Atypicalshuttleloom.Theshuttleis

abouttolayfillingyarnthroughtheshed

(SpringsIndustries,Inc.)

2023/1/1716SHUTTLELESSWEAVINGMACHINESShuttlelessweavingmachineswove17percentmorefabricin1987thantheydidin1982,andTextileWorld

predictsthatshuttleloomswillbeoutnumbered數(shù)目超過(guò)，比多byshuttlelessweavingmachinesintheearly1990s.Themajortypesofshuttlelessweavingmachinesareprojectilemachines,rapiermachines,andjetmachines,whichuseeitherairorwatertolaythepick.2023/1/1717ProjectileWeavingTheprojectilemachine,diagrammedinFigure19.5,usesasmallbullet-shapedprojectilewithagripper（片梭，夾紗器）thatpullstheyarnoffthesupplypackageatthesideoftheweavingareaandcarriesitacrosstheshed.Onlyenoughyarnforonepassacrossthewidthofthefabriciscarriedacross.Projectileloomswithoneormoreprojectilesareavailable;themultiple-projectiletypeismorecommon.Thesingle-projectilesystempicksupyarnonthesupplysideandcarriesittheentirewidthoftheshed.Afterbeat-uphasoccurred,theprojectilepicksupyarnfromasecondsupplysourceontheothersideandreturnsacrosstheshedtoplacethenextpick.2023/1/1718FIGURE19.5Operatingprinciplesforaprojectileweavingmachine.(Sulzer-Ruti)2023/1/1719

Eachpickisindividuallycut,sothereisnotacontinuouslywovenselvagelikethatproducedbyashuttlemachine.Instead,edgesarefringed（毛邊）.Tofinishthem,atucking（摺，包邊）deviceisusedonbothsidestointerlacefringewiththelastfewwarpyarnseachedge.2023/1/1720RapierWeaving劍桿

Therapiersystemoperateswitheitherflexibleorrigidmetalarms,orrapiers,attachedatbothsidesoftheweavingarea.Onearmcarriesapicktothecenteroftheweavingarea;thearmextendingfromtheothersidegraspsthepickandcarriesitacrosstheremainingfabricwidth.Newerrapiermachinesarebuiltwithtwodistinctweavingareasfortwoseparatefabrics.Onsuchmachines,onerapierpicksuptheyarnfromthecenter,betweenthetwofabrics,anditacrossoneweavingarea;asitfinishesthatpick,theoppositeendoftherapierpicksupanotheryarnfromthecenter,andtherapiermovesintheotherdirectiontolayapickforthesecondweavingarea,ontheotherhalfofthemachine.Figure19.7diagramstheactiononasinglewidthoffabricforasinglerigidrapiersystem,adoublerigidrapiersystem,andadoubleflexiblerapiersystem.2023/1/1721FIGURE19.7Diagramoftheoperationofthreerapiersystems,Singlerigidrapier.Therapier(alongthinrod)entersthewarpfromtheleftandcarriesonepickacrosstheentirewarpwidth.

2023/1/1722Doublerigidrapiers.Thetworapiersenterthewarpsimultaneouslyandmeetinthecenter.Theleft-handrapiercarriesthepicktothecenterofthewarpandthenhandsitovertotheright-handrapier.2023/1/1723Doubleflexible

rapiers.Sameprincipleasrigidrapiersbuttherigidrods桿，棒arereplacedbyflexiblesteelorplastictapeswhichfollowacurvedpath.2023/1/1724

Rapiermachinesweavemorerapidlythanmostshuttlemachinesbutmoreslowlythanmostprojectilemachines.Animportantadvantageofrapiermachinesistheirflexibility,whichpermitsthelayingofpicksofdifferentcolors.Theyalsoweaveyarnsofanytypeoffiberandcanweavefabricsupto110inchesinwidthwithoutmodification.2023/1/1725Air-andWater-JetWeavingJetweavinglaysapickwitheitherajetofairorajetofwater.Air-jetweavingismorepopularbecausethemachinescostlesstopurchase,install,operate,andmaintainthanrapierorprojectileweavingmachines,andtheairjetcanbeusedonabroadervarietyofyarnsthanawaterjet.2023/1/1726

Air-JetWeaving

Figure19.8depicts描述，描寫thebasicstepsinair-jetweaving.Theyarnispulledfromthesupplypackageataconstantspeed,whichisregulatedbytherollers,locatedwiththemeasuringdisk測(cè)量指示盤justinfrontoftheyarnpackage.Themeasuringdiskremovesalengthofyarnappropriatetothewidthofthefabricbeingwoven,Aclampholdstheyarninaninsertionstoragearea,whereanauxiliaryairnozzleformsitintotheshapeofahairpinU形發(fā)夾.2023/1/1727

FIGURE19.8Operationoftheair-jetloom.(Sulzer-Ruti)2023/1/1728

Themainnozzlebeginsblowingairsothattheyarnissetin開(kāi)始到來(lái)，插入motionassoonas

theclampopens.Thehairpinshapeisstretchedout伸展，伸長(zhǎng)astheyarnisblownintotheguidingchannel導(dǎo)紗通道ofthereedwiththeshedopen.Theyarniscarriedthroughtheshedbytheaircurrents（氣流）emitted發(fā)射，放射bytherelaynozzles接力噴嘴alongthechannel.Themaximumeffectivewidthforair-jetweavingmachinesisabout355cm(140in.).Attheendofeachinsertioncycletheclampcloses:theyarnisbeatenin,thencut,aftertheshedisclosed.Again,someselvage-formingdeviceisrequiredtoprovidestabilitytotheedgesofthefabric.2023/1/1729

Water-Jet

Weaving

Water-jetweavingmachinesarenotusedasfrequentlyasairjets,buttheyarepreferredforsometypesoffabrics.Figure19.9showsafilling

yarnbeinglaidinpositionbyajetofwater.Theprocessisunsuitableforyarnsofhydrophilic親水的，吸水的

fibersbecausethefabricpicksuptoomuchmoisture.2023/1/1730FIGURE19.9Afillingyarnbeinginsertedbyajetofwateratarateof420ppm.

(SpringsIndustries.Inc.)2023/1/1731

Bothair-andwater-jetloomsweaverapidly,provideforlayingdifferentcolorsinthefillingdirection,andproduceuniform,high-qualityfabrics.Theyarelessnoisyandrequirelessspacethanmostothertypesofweavingmachines.Theycauseminimaldamagetowarpyarnsduringtheweavingoperation,becausetheairorwaterjetsarelessabrasive研磨thanmovingmetalparts.2023/1/1732MISCELLANEOUS混雜的WEAVINGSYSTEMSMultishedWeavingIntheweavingmachinesdiscussedthusfar,onlyoneshedatatimewasformedforpickinsertion.Multishedweaving

ischaracterizedbythenearlysimultaneousinsertionofseveralpicksacrossthewidthofthefabric.Thisrequiresaseparatesheddingmotionforeachpickthatistobelaid.Suchmachinesweaveataphenomenal（顯著的）rateofspeed.2023/1/1733

Theprocesstransformsweavingintoacontinuousprocessratherthanacycleofshedding,picking,andbeatingup.Theoperationofmultishedweavingmachinesisbasedonaseriesofwavelikemotionsacrosstheweavingsurface.Ingeneral,fabricswovenontheseloomsdonothaveatrue90-degreeanglebetweenwarpandfilling;thefillingyarnsareslightlyslanted,orskewed[緯斜（織疵），歪斜].Multishedweavingislimitedtospecialtypesoffabrics,butitcanbeexpectedtogainacceptanceintheyarnsahead.2023/1/1734CircularWeaving圓型織機(jī)織造Theweavingmachinesdiscusseduptothispointproduceflatfabricwithsomekindofselvageedge.Thereare,inaddition,somecircularweaving

machinesthatproducetubular管狀織物fabricsuchaspillowcases枕頭套.Suchmachinesnotnew,buttheyarenotwidelyusedbecausethereislittledemandforcircularwovenfabric.2023/1/1735TriaxialWeavingInterlacingpicksandendsat90-degreeanglesproducesbiaxial二軸的,ororthogonal直角的，直交的(perpendicular)structures.Intriaxialweaving,yarnsareinterlacedata60-degreeangle(Figure19.10).Thewarpismountedonbeams橫梁abovetheweavingarea(

Figure19.11):thesebeamsrotateandreleasewarpyarnsastheweavingprogresses.2023/1/1736

Thewarpyarnsmoveverticallydownwardtotheweavingzone,wherefromtheirparallelpositionssomeof

theyarnsaretipped傾斜，翻到untiltheyareata60-degreeanglefromtheotheryarns,butstillinthesameplane平面.Fillingisinsertedusingarigidrapiersystem.Thefabricdoesnothaveatraditionalselvagebecausethewarpyarnsformtheselvageastheycrossbackintotheweavingplane.Thewarpyarnsformadiagonal對(duì)角線的pathfromonesideofthefabrictotheother,thenreverse倒退，相反andreturntotheoppositeside.Thisisrepeatedforallwarpyarnsduringtheweaving.2023/1/1737FIGURE19.10Diagramoftriaxiaiweaving:shedformation.2023/1/1738

2023/1/1739

2023/1/1740

2023/1/1741Figure19.11Atriaxialweavingmachine.Noticethelocationofthewarpbeams.2023/1/1742

Thefillingyarnsareinsertedandpackedintopositionusingopenbeaterfingers

ratherthanastandardreedinthebeaterframe.Onesetoffingersholdsthepreviousfillingendinpositionwhilethenextfillingisbeinginsertedandthenpackedintoplace.Themajormarketfortrixialfabricsisinindustrialproducts.2023/1/1743WovenFabricCharacteristicsWidthSelvageGrain織物結(jié)構(gòu)Fabriccount織物經(jīng)緯密度Differencesbetweenwarpandfillingyarns2023/1/1744WidthThewidthandcompactnessofthefinalfabricaredeterminedinlargepartbythespacingofthewarpyarnsacrossthewarpbeam.Thepreparationofwarpbeams,calledwarping,isamultistepprocess.Packagesofyarnsfromthespinningoperationareplacedoncreels(筒子架)toformasectionbeam分條整經(jīng)

thatcontainssomepredeterminedportionofthewarpyarnsneed-edtoproduceafabric(Figure19.12),2023/1/1745

Theyarnsfromseveralsectionbeamsarethencombinedtoformawarpbeam.Aspartofthewarpingoperation,theyarnsaresubjectedtoaprocesscalledslashing（經(jīng)紗上漿，漿紗）

inwhichtheyarecoatedwithasizingmaterial.AsshowninFigure19.13(p.198),thesectionbeamsareplacedbehindtheslasher（漿紗機(jī)）.Theyarnsaredrawnthroughthesizingcompound混合物，化合物,dried,separated,andwoundontothewarpbeamattheotherendoftheslasher.Thesizingincreasesthestrengthofthewarpyarnsandprovidessomeprotectionfromtheabrasiveactionsofweaving.2023/1/1746FIGURE19.13Windingawarpbeamfromthesectionbeamsthatarebarelyvisibleinthebackground.Protectivesizingisappliedtothewarpyarnsontheslasher.(HoechstCelanese)2023/1/1747SELVAGETheselvageisthefinishededgeofafabric.Incontrasttothecontinuouswovenselvageproducedbytheshuttleloom,theselvageonfabricproducedbyshuttlelessweavingmustbesecured固定，系住inaseparateoperation.Iftheedgeformedonshuttlelessmachineswerenotmodified,itwouldresemble像，類似araveled（糾纏的）pieceoffabricwithlooseyarnendsextendingasafringe【即形成爛邊】.Toachievefabricedgessimilartothosemadebyshuttlemachines,variousmethodshavebeenadopted(Figure19.14.p.199).2023/1/1748

Themostcommonedgeisthetuckedselvage回邊，折入邊,intheshorttailofthepickisreversedandinterlacedwiththelastfewendsoneachsideofthefabrictoproduceaselvagewithtwiceasmanypicksasthebodyofthefabric.Inthermoplasticfabrics,selvagescanbeproducedusingtwoadditionalwarpyarnswrappedleno-weavepattern,thenheat-treatedtoproduceasealededge封邊.Somemachineslayanarrowlineofadhesiveorresinalongtheedgetosealtheyarnsandpreventraveling.2023/1/1749GRAIN

Fabricgrain（織物結(jié)構(gòu)）

isatermusedinapparelconstructiontodescribetherelationshipbetweenfillingandwarpyarnpositionsinawovenfabric.Thedirectionofthesheetofparallelwarpyarnsisthelengthwisegrain縱向結(jié)構(gòu).

Thecrosswisegrain橫向，交叉

followsanysinglefillingyarnperpendiculartotheselvage.Fabricsinwhichthewarpandfillingyarnsinterlaceatrightangles（90度）isreferredtousbeingongrain（）(Figure19.15,p.199).Warpandfillingyarnsthatdonotintersectatrightanglesproduceeitherabowed（弓緯疵布）oraskewed（緯斜的）

fabric.2023/1/1750FIGURE19.15Designationoffabricgrain.Refertothispictureonp.1992023/1/1751

Bowedfabrics（弓緯疵布，織物橫列弓形）

haveafillingyarnthatisperpendiculartotheselvageateachsidebutdoesnotfollowanimaginary(假想的)straightlineintersecting橫斷thetwoselvagepoints;instead,itcurves.Skewedfabrics緯斜，歪斜

haveafillingyarnthatisnotperpendiculartothewarpyarnattheselvage,butintersectsthewarpatsomeotherangle.Thetermbias斜裁剪isusedinthecuttingandsewingtradetodescribethediagonaldirection斜向ofafabric.Wovenfabrichasthegreateststretchinthetruebias正斜direction,whichisexactly45degreesfrombothfillingandwarpyarns.2023/1/1752FABRICCOUNT

Fabriccount（織物經(jīng)緯密度）isthenumberofwarpyarns(ends)andfillingyarns(picks)inagivenlengthoffabric.Thefabriccountisusuallyexpressedasyarnspercentimeteroryarnsperinch:yarnsperinch英寸ismorecommonintheUnitedStatesThegeneralprocedureistolistthewarpcountfirst,thenthefillingnumber(forexample,90x70),orthetotalofthetwo(160).Whenthenumberofendsperinchisapproximatelythesameasthenumberofpicksperinch,thefabriccountisconsideredbalanced;whenthenumberofyarnsperinchdiffersconsiderablybetweenthewarpandfilling,thecountisunbalanced.

Fabricswithbalancedcountsarcmorelikelytohavesimilarpropertiesinbothdirectionsofthefabric.2023/1/1753DIFFERENCESBETWEENWARPANDFILLINGYARNS(區(qū)別經(jīng)緯向)Severalcharacteristicsdifferentiatethewarpandfillingyarnsinafabricsample.Whentheswatch（小塊樣布）hasaselvage,itiseasytodistinguishthewarpyarnsbecausetheyareparalleltotheselvage,whereasthefillingyarnsareperpendiculartoit.Mostswatchescutfromapieceoffabric,however,donotcontainaselvage,theidentificationesmoredifficultIngeneral:2023/1/1754

Fabricsstretchslightlymoreinthe

fillingdirection緯向.Warpyarnsusuallyarestrongerthanfillingyarns.Warpyarnshavemoretwistthanfillingyarns.Simpleplyyarnsaremorefrequentlyusedinthewarp.Noveltyyarnsaremorelikelytobeusedasfillingyarns.2023/1/1755BasicWeaves

PLAINWEAVE（平紋織物）Theplainweave,thesimplestformofyarninterlacing,isproducedbythealternatesheddingofwarpyarnstoprovideafabricinwhicheachpickpassesoveroneendandundertheadjacentend.Thenextpickinsertedreversestheinterlacingsothatitpassesovertheendsthatwereabovetheprecedingpickandunderthewarpyarnthatlaybeneath在之下theprecedingpick.Figures19.16and19.17areillustrationsoftheplainweave.Figure19.18is

referredtoasapointdiagram點(diǎn)圖.Eachblacksquarerepresentsthewarpyarnonthefabricface.Theseriesofsquaresparalleltotheverticaldiagram(andthelengthofthepage)shouldbevisualized形象化，想象asthewarpdirectionofthefabric,andthehorizontalrows水平行representthefillingdirection.

2023/1/1756FIGURE19-16Magnificationoftheplainweave.(AmericanTextileManufacturersInstitute)2023/1/17