contentsThedefinitionofcheongsamTheoriginofcheongsamTheevolutionofcheongsamThestructure

ofcheongsamRepresentativefiguresMypersonalopinionsoncheongsamPicturesappreciating第一頁第二頁，共31頁。Thedefinition（定義）TheQiPaoorChi-Pao,alsoknownasthecheongsamormandaringown(長袍)；Abody-hugging(緊身的)one-piece(連衣裙)Chinesedress；TheEnglishvocabularycheongsamcomesfromtheCantonese(廣東話).ItisknowninMandarinChinese（普通話）astheqípáoinBeijingandShanghai.第二頁第三頁，共31頁。TheCheongsam（旗袍）camefromtheManchus（滿族人）whogrewoutof（產生于）ancientNuzhentribes（女真部落）.Intheearly17thcentury,Nurhachi（努爾哈赤）,agreatpoliticalandmilitarystrategist,unifiedthevariousNuzhentribesandsetuptheEightBannersSystem（八旗制度）.Overtheyears,acollarless（無領）,tube－shapedgownwasdeveloped,whichwaswornbybothmenandwomen.Thatistheembryo（胚胎）oftheQipao.ThedressiscalledQipaoinChineseortranslatedas“bannergown（旗服）",foritcamefromthepeoplewholivedundertheBannerSystem.Theorigin（起源）第三頁第四頁，共31頁。WideandlooseCoverbodyA-line第四頁第五頁，共31頁。WhycallQipaochinadressQipao,whichisfamouswithitsharmonyandunity,isknownastherepresentativeoftheChinesedressculture.Itshowstheeleganttemperament（優雅氣質）ofChinesewomen,demonstratestheculture(文化)andvirtues（美德）ofournation.Itcreatesanimpressionofsimplicityandquiet,charm,eleganceandneatness..It’samagnificentrainbowofthehumanculture.第五頁第六頁，共31頁。Theevolution（歷史沿革）ThelateQingDynasty.

AftertheOpiumWar(鴉片戰爭),theEuropean-stylesuitsenteredChinafirst.Thewideandloosebodyhadgraduallybecomeshortandnarrow.In1919,theOrdinance（法令）aboutgarmentswasannouncedbytheNationalGovernmentandcheongsamwasestablishedtobethenationalgarments.In1920sIntheearlyRepublicofChina（中華民國），thecheongsambegantobepopularagain.Thebodybecameshortened.Thewaist

（腰部）wasnarrowed.Latertherewasanewchangethatstyleofcollar（領子）washighlightedtobefashionabletoshowfeminineappearance.第六頁第七頁，共31頁。Fromthe1950sto1960sIntheEastAsia,thefoundingofthePeople’sRepublicofChinamarkstheendoftheoldlife.Thecheongsam,whichhasbeencherishedbypeopleforalongtimewasnotpracticalandwassetaside(放置一旁).Butin1950sand1960s,cheongsamsbegantoshowupagain

（再次出現）inthepeople'slives.Fromthe1930sto1940s

1930sand1940ssawthecheongsaminitspeakfashion(時尚頂峰).AffectedbythestylesoftheEurope,astepforwardwasmadeinexposingthefemalefigure（女性曲線）.Thecheongsamin1930swasshortenedwiththelengthtotheknees,andthecuffs(袖口)werealsonarrowed.

GoldenEraInmoderntimes.Popularagainnow.From1966to1976CulturalRevolution（文革）,disaster第七頁第八頁，共31頁。1920s1930s

1940s第八頁第九頁，共31頁。Thedistinction(區別)Qing:broad,flat,longtofeet,silk.Rep:shapedwaist.Qing:wearingslacks,seethebottomoftrousersfromtheopening.Rep:wearingsilkstockings,showthelegs.Qing:usebrocade(織錦)orjacquard(提花織物).Rep:printedfabric(印花織物),simplicity.distinction第九頁第十頁，共31頁。QingdynastyRepublicofChina第十頁第十一頁，共31頁。Frog盤扣Thestructure立領襟衩刺繡Mandarincollar立領Lapel/frontofagarment襟Openings衩embroidery刺繡第十一頁第十二頁，共31頁。Thestyle(樣式)Chi-paohasmanystyles,andthechangeismainlybasedonsleeves,Jin,collar,openings,andthelengthofCheongsam.Sleeves（袖子）:widesleeves,narrowandlongsleeves,middlesleeves,shortsleevesorsleeveless.Jin（襟）:roundJin,straightJin,slantingJin(斜襟),doubleJin（雙襟）,PipaJin（琵琶襟）,andsoon.Collar(領):highcollar,lowcollar，orcollarless.Openings（開衩）:highopenings,lowopenings,noopening第十二頁第十三頁，共31頁。longsleevesshortsleevessleeveless.第十三頁第十四頁，共31頁。如意襟琵琶襟斜襟雙襟第十四頁第十五頁，共31頁。高領低領無領第十五頁第十六頁，共31頁。高開衩低開衩第十六頁第十七頁，共31頁。Thefactions(派別)TheBeijingstyle,withred-tapism,appearsreservedandconcise京派風格則帶有官派作風，顯得矜持凝練；ShanghaistylewithacharacterizationofabsorbingtheWestArtsisup-to-date,flexibleandhasastrongbusinessatmosphere.海派風格以吸收西藝為特點，標新且靈活多樣，商業氣息濃厚。第十七頁第十八頁，共31頁。京派第十八頁第十九頁，共31頁。海派第十九頁第二十頁，共31頁。Representativefigures張愛玲EileenChang(1920-1995)

Awell-knownwriter，beaddictedtocheongsam.Lifeisacolorfulgown,coveredwithlice.生命是一襲華美的袍子，上面

爬滿了虱子。

衣服是一種言語，隨身帶著一種袖珍戲劇……貼身的環境——那就是衣服，我們各人住在各人的衣服里第二十頁第二十一頁，共31頁。宋美齡SoongMay-ling(1897-2003)FirstladyinRepublicofChina.旗袍第一夫人Sheownsthemostnumberofqipaoallovertheworld.第二十一頁第二十二頁，共31頁。鄧麗君WherethereareChinesethereishervoice,shereallymadethebeautyofthecheongsam,cheongsamaccomplishedherlegend.有華人的地方就有鄧麗君的歌聲，她成全了旗袍的美麗，旗袍成就了她的傳奇。第二十二頁第二十三頁，共31頁。

Inthefilm《IntheMoodforLove》（似水年華）

，MaggieCheung（張曼玉）changemorethan23setsofqipao,afterthemovierelease,Itsetoffarushof“cheongsamhot(旗袍熱)."Can’titarouseourdeeplythinkingabouttheculturalchangeofcheongsam?Cheongsamreflectstheelegantcharmoforientalwomen第二十三頁第二十四頁，共31頁。第二十四頁第二十五頁，共31頁。MypersonalopinionsonqipaoThecheongsam,asadazzlingexoticflowerinChina‘snationalapparel（服裝）,willnotonlyexistinthefuturebutalsocontinuetobeinfullbloomtogetherwiththewonderfulgarmentsintheworld，becausetheuniquebeauty（美麗）,demeanor（